Is 5-ALA the future of anti-ageing skin care?

In our recent interview with CosmeticsDesign Europe, we shared how we’re pioneering the use of 5‑aminolevulinic acid phosphate—commonly known as 5‑ALA—in skincare, marking a first for the cosmetics industry. While 5‑ALA has been known for its role in cellular energy production, it had never before been used as an active ingredient in beauty products. We’ve changed that.

We explained how 5‑ALA supports ATP production and mitochondrial function, both essential for skin regeneration, firmness, and hydration. Unlike common actives that work on the surface, 5‑ALA enhances the skin’s energy metabolism from within—stimulating collagen-like processes, improving cellular vitality, and even generating internal hydration through metabolic water.

We also discussed clinical data supporting its efficacy. A double-blind Japanese study showed significant improvement in moisture retention and wrinkle depth with 5‑ALA application. In our own trials, our 5‑ALA + Vitamin C serum increased skin density by 45% in just 28 days, and our moisturiser reduced wrinkles by almost 20%. Even our niacinamide serum, formulated with 5‑ALA, boosted hydration by over 35% in just two weeks.

One major reason this ingredient hasn’t been used in cosmetics until now is due to its close association with pharmaceutical applications, especially in the hydrochloride form (5‑ALA HCl). However, we hold the patent for the phosphate form, which is stable, effective, and safe for cosmetic use. We’ve invested in extensive formulation work, safety testing, and UV interaction studies, and our products are certified by Dermatest®.

We also touched on how we’ve developed our products in Germany, inspired by Japanese standards of skincare—formulating clean, lightly scented products that are shelf-stable for six months after opening. Our formulations are fully EU-compliant and ready for entry into the US market under MoCRA/FDA regulations.

Read the full interview here:

Is 5‑ALA the future of anti-ageing skincare? (CosmeticsDesign Europe)